This is Part 1 of a series where we will discuss specific freediving equipment types, what suits a freediver and the factors to consider before making a purchase. If you have just entered the world of Freediving and all the mind-boggling choices online are confusing, here’s the solution. Analytics.
It’s a jungle of information out there. Good freediving equipment is important at every stage, whether you’re a beginner freediver or a freediving instructor. It affects how efficient you are in the water; well-fitted gear makes you a more efficient diver. Efficiency/ Economy of Effort is one of the ultimate goals of a sport, where relaxation is a foundational pillar.
Be warned, if you are a gearhead in other aspects of your life, there’s a good chance the same tendencies will carry over here, too. Land logic also applies to Ocean Logic.
These are common factors that you can use to choose what suits you best. They are not in any series of importance except your own. If cost is more important than performance, then so be it. This is a guide. Let’s go.
Take a look at each of the different aspects to consider, and then hopefully you will be better placed to make an informed decision. A few standard guidelines would be to check all freediving equipment in the water before making a purchase. Dive schools and your instructors will be an asset in this regard; use that resource.
We’ll be looking at Masks, Fins, Wetsuits and Weight Systems in the following sections. These are our building blocks towards becoming a colour-coordinated freediver who kills it in all pictures and conditions.
MASK
Two terms, i.e. Low Profile and Low Volume, are critical. Everything else is subjective. Low profile refers to how far out a mask projects from the diver’s face. Low volume refers to the internal volume of a mask once fitted onto a diver.
A higher volume mask, like a scuba mask, will require frequent equalisation and a greater amount of air to achieve the same result. In itself, not an issue when on scuba, however, we’d like to avoid using air too frequently to equalise the mask. God knows the ears are demanding enough, so why bring a mask to the EQ party as well?
Any mask that is Low-Profile and Low-Volume is good. There are inane intricacies related to the silicone, external frame, internal frames, profile, and volumes. Leave them for a quest down that rabbit hole.
Since every face has a different structure with varying cheekbone heights, nose shapes and sizes, it’s imperative to find one that fits you as an individual. The mask should seal well without flooding with water, and it should be easy to pinch your nose to equalise. That’s it. First Principles.
If you, like our Instructors Sergei and Akshay, have decided that facial hair is of paramount importance, then congratulations, you’ve unlocked a hidden difficulty in the game. There are essentially two options.
On the left: Sergei, go the chin strap route. On the right: Akshay, find a mask that fits despite that werewolf-looking fuzz.
Tips and tricks, such as growing your moustache out, applying Vaseline over the mask, and shaving a thin strip under the nose, are all effective tricks. They only work for so long, and it’s another variable that suddenly becomes critical for each dive. It’s avoidable. Keep trying different models of masks to find one that works with your prized beard. Or treat yourself to a razor and a clean shave.
As with all freediving equipment, we will discuss specific brands and recommendations in the following article.
FINS
The primary means of propulsion in the water is also called Bi-Fins, Stereo Fins or just fins, unless mentioned explicitly as a Monofin. They are not Flippers.
Here we start getting into greater permutations than a mask. There is a deeper rabbit hole to explore regarding foot pocket angles, the balance between comfort and performance, your weight, the stiffness of the blades, whether you’re in a pool, open water, competing, or if you’re an instructor or have a natural gift. But again, we keep it simple, and the factors we’ll look at will be:
- Fit
- Material
- Usage
- Level of the Freediver
- Cost
- Travel Considerations
Well-Fitting Foot Pockets
The most critical factor in our opinion. The foot pocket is currently the most vital part of the fins. A well-fitted foot pocket will be a snug fit. A fit that does not chafe or is too tight in the water.
Remember, these will be on your feet for at least an hour. Loosely fitted foot pockets will chafe and rub against the foot, preventing efficient energy transfer. Conversely, too tight a fit can be uncomfortable, potentially causing pain and distraction. Relaxation levels of a Zen monk are hard to achieve whilst in pain.
Like our faces, our feet are all unique. From Tyrion Lannister to the Mountain, everyone needs footwear that suits their feet and use. As with all footwear, look for each manufacturer’s sizing and measurement guide; they are generally quite detailed and probably have an attached YouTube link for visual confirmation.
Wear them in the conditions you are most likely to dive in. If you need 3 mm socks because it’s cold in Australia, factor that in when deciding which fin size to get. Feet on the extreme end of the scales will always have some difficulty, but you already know that. Looking at you, Shaq.
Material, Cost and Travel
Plastic, Fibreglass or Carbon fibre. Listed in increasing order of cost, decreasing order of durability. Plastic fins manufactured today suffice for your foray into freediving. They travel well, don’t cost too much as an initial investment and will let you do almost everything you want.
Quick Tip: Don’t fall for carbon-fibre FOMO. Unless you’re competing, plastic fins are just fine.
At Kaizen Freediving, we train all levels of freedivers. Our flagship program, Zero to Hero, is done using good-quality freediving equipment, including plastic fins, and you won’t feel the need to upgrade. Fibreglass and carbon fins will improve your technique and efficiency without a doubt; however, the caveat of “Is it needed?” needs to be answered. This ties into the next part: Travel.
Travelling with Long Fins
It’s not the easiest and does require a degree of planning. Backpacking across the Ha Giang loop with a pair of long fins, whether made of carbon or plastic, is not going to be easy. Do-able, of course, but do you want to? The more expensive carbon fins will most likely need a hard case to protect them and your heart from the shocks of airport/bus/ferry transport. This is where you need to bring out the weighing scale and decide what’s important and practical for you.
Usage
We like to believe in upgrading freediving equipment in consonance with the frequency and distances you train for. Beyond a certain stage, better gear will reap dividends, and by then your understanding of what works for you will be much higher. Wait it out, upgrade as you go along. It’s also a sound reward system.
This last bit is subjective, but do you really need the $500 carbon fibre custom fins at this stage? If you want it, go for it; follow the old adage of “If you believe it helps, it does”
WETSUIT
The Primary Function
The primary function of a wetsuit is exposure protection. It keeps you, the diver, warm and conserves energy. First Principles. Don’t forget that the bulk of your open water session is spent resting on the surface face down.
The perfect wetsuit for you should be the centre of your Venn diagram of priorities: comfort, durability, and insulation.
Open cell, closed cell, one-piece, two-piece, thickness, wearing only the top or the bottoms of your two-piece, how long each material lasts, etc., are factors to consider independently.
Each one is a variable that will affect the cost. Some materials last longer than others. If you’re considering a wetsuit as a student, instructor, or Athlete, each one will have their preferences. An instructor will prefer one that lasts longer, while an athlete may choose a more streamlined option over durability.
An important side-effect of your choice of wetsuits will be your buoyancy. General Rule of Thumb: The Thicker the wetsuit, the more weights you need. Factoring in travel and your planned dive locations will change all these variables.
WEIGHT SYSTEMS
Buoyancy
Ever since Archimedes came up with the idea, the world hasn’t stopped talking about it. From the Titanic to the titans of freediving. It’s something we all keep fine-tuning.
The amount of weight a diver needs is determined by several factors, including their weight, the type of water (fresh or salt), the wetsuit they wear, and whether they are in a pool or open water.
How the weight is distributed is what we shall discuss. A weight belt is the simplest form of a weighting system. Rubber is preferred because it can expand and contract in tandem with the diver, unlike Nylon weight belts, which are relatively uncomplicated. However, the simplest freediving equipment is not always the most efficient. A larger number of weights on the hips is not only detrimental to hydrodynamics but also uncomfortable.
A neck weight is a great add-on to distribute the weight over the larger shoulder muscles and reduce the amount needed on the hips.
In both the pool and open water, the difference is incredible. Before picking up a neck weight or going old school and making one with a bicycle tyre tube, let’s unpack something.
Distribution
The overall weight worn does not change with a neck weight. How much goes over which body part is all that changes. Neck weights come in varying sizes and weights. Try them out and see how comfortable you feel with 2 kilos on your shoulders. Can your shoulders take that load along with your expectations? Jokes apart, like with all new gear, there will be a period of getting used to it.
Quick Tip
Distribution matters more than the number. Find what feels balanced in water, not just on land.
Travel
Carrying 2 kilos or more of lead weights anywhere is not easy, especially given how some neck weights are pretty expensive. Recently on our way to a pool competition, our three instructor Trainers were carrying their neck weights: a grand total of 15 kilos of just neck weights. Not adding in 3 sets of bi-fins, one monofin and wetsuits. It’s a logistical exercise, and a learning one.
FINAL THOUGHTS
Freediving equipment doesn’t need to be complicated. The ocean doesn’t judge whether your fins are carbon or plastic. But your feet and comfort levels will. Start with the basics, trust your body, and remember: performance comes from good habits, not just fancy kit.
Your instructors (yes, including the ones with high-maintenance beards) are more than happy to guide you through real-world gear decisions. Ask questions. Try things out. Be curious
Coming Up Next: The Real Gear Talk
In Part 2 of this series, we’ll dive into the deep end of specific freediving equipment:
- Which masks seal well and survive moustaches?
- Fins are our instructors’ swear by.
- Wetsuits that will serve you.
- Neck weights: DIY and off the Shelf.
If you’ve ever felt overwhelmed browsing freediving gear online, we’ve got your back (and your feet, face, shoulders, and hips).
Written by PADI Freediving Instructor Trainer Akshay Tatthe
If you’re considering buying freediving equipment from brands like Molchanovs, 2BeFree, Freexperience, TruDive, or Lobster, use promo code KAIZEN (for Molchanovs, it is KAIZEN24) to get 10% off!